Monday, 4 October 2010

Turn up the heat...

John Galliano certail turned up the heat with his SS11 artistic collection. Galliano took his inspiration from Maria Lani - whose portrait was used as the show invitation. Beautiful butterfly print trousers accompanied sheer chiffon blazers, while creamy leather jackets were worn over wide grey trousers.  Multicoloured and florale layer skirts were paired with chiffon wrap blouses and 'bee keeper' veils, while bouquet hats were hot on trend. Key to the collection were sheer blouses, showing a little flesh, ruffles and layers, tropical print, crystal and gold and layers of embroidery. The collection was oriental meets Victorian with a diverse spread of looks which maintained the theme of extravagance throughout...


The Queen of Hearts...

Well my heart - Sonia Rykiel. With her signature stripes, bold colours and fluffy hair, the SS11 collection made it's début.  Obviously expecting less sun and more cloud, her collection played around wool t-shirt dresses, oversized striped cardigans worn with leggings, dungarees and huge sweatshirts. Wide legged trousers and nude silk dresses with gold metallic daisies, floppy parkas and beautifully tailored shorts tied with a bow.  Cropped trousers and colour block jumpers, and swishy skirts with gentle pleats worn with beautiful sun hats and cheerful faces in an array of sweet candy colours and bold blocks; pink, blush, peach, orange.  Hints of camel, tan and black, then lemon, white, beige and turquoise.  Typically Sonia Rykiel, expertly beautiful. To finish the collection Sonia moved towards sleeveless tulle and jersey floor length dresses and sweet jumpsuits - a different twist for each. The show's finale entailed a parade of models all clad in knitted knickers and matching tops covering the candy coloured spectrum.  Fun, happy and sweet. With summer accessories to die for! Striped handbags, ballet shoes, floppy hats and espadrill platforms completed each sweet look. A collection that I truly adore. Sonia you never disappoint...


Volume Overload...

Only Victor and Rolf. Their SS11 collection shows their true imagination. Wacky, wild and OTT. Think simple pieces multiplied by an enormous amount of volume, a clashing of colours, crisp whites, turquoise, peach, pale blue and flashes of red and orange in the way of oversized shirts that morphed into a magnitude of different shapes. Key to the day looks were simple tailored trousers, oversized shirting with bib effect detail with cuffs and pear collar beading.  Stripes, big shoulders and tuxedo tails that poked through tailored shorts and a very 'wedding day tuxedo meets Alice in Wonderland' theme to the casual wear. And then came the gowns. Crisp white cuttings that looked more like works of art than clothing. Sharp edges, multiple skirt layers and a finale dress that resembled an origami Christmas tree fairy. Magnified romance and wild eccentricity which captured the minds and the hearts of the audience...


Pretty Sleek...

Held in a former transportation depot, the show started with the sound of drums.  Lanvin shocked as their SS11 collection debuted, showing significant difference from their usual romantic feeling collections. Emerging onto the catwalk was a model clad in a full pleated chiffon skirt that billowed to reveal tight bodies as the model sashayed down the catwalk.  Hot on her tail was a beautiful asymmetric swaying organza dress and as the collection came to a close a beautiful ruby pleated organza dress - but that was as romantic as it got.

The collection then moved towards body concious tops and dresses - sculpted and sexy with exposed zips up the back, racer back dresses baring shoulders and  oversized tuxedo jackets worn with slinky leggings.  Plunging 'v' necks balanced out square shoulders and heavy metal embellishment played amongst crochet knits and high necklines.  The collection was minimal with detailing (if possible?) - the shapes remained unfussy while the pleats and ruched material added elements of texture which brought the collection to life. I wasn't overly fussed on this collection, because I like the romance and unreserved nature of Lanvin collections and SS11 didn't to hit the spot for me.

Friday, 1 October 2010

I was never the girl next door...

And we welcome Dior. Galliano opened the show by parading his models out as if they had just stomped off the nearest ship. Cute, white sailor hats and wooly socks played amongst tropical prints, lightweight oversized parkas, chinos, skirts and sexy denim playsuits. Then it got flirty.  Cruise ship standard dresses and flirty rara skirts in fabulously bright, electric colours; orange, fuchsia, purple, turquoise and green.  Even garland, shell and feather necklaces completed the tropical look.  Oh so 7* 50's cruise ship magnificent.   Then came the party dresses. Known for his magical touch when it comes to an evening gown, Galliano did not disappoint. Although the dresses were a step away from the usual heavy glamour gowns, they were typically Galliano - complex in design.  With a criss cross of material here and a wrap over of material there the presses were so beautiful. Strutting down the catwalk in drapings of palm and tropical print chiffon, sultry red lips and 50's feeling haircuts, the girls marked the collections stamp on SS11.  A stunningly beautiful collection that puts other designers to shame.  It remained playful and light-hearted but contemporary - to be worn with ease and grace. I suppose that's what we love Galliano for....

Happy Birthday Vogue...

Amongst all the fashion week goings on, Vogue Paris celebrated it's 90th anniversary last night with a masked ball. Held at the Hotel Pozzo di Borgo the event attracted every influential member of the French fashion world - and their eye masks.  Christian Louboutin, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gisele partied alongisde Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss and Carine Roitfeld with their faces hidden behind some of the most extravagant eye masks I ever did see.  With a red eye mask to match his red soled shoes, Mr Louboutin looked every inch the glamour puss, while Lara Stone looked sensational in a shimmering green Calvin Klein gown and matching eye mask.  What better way to celebrate than with a masked ball...



Balmain...

Rock chic at it's best.  Regardless of what season it is, Balmain intends us to stay rock chick for the foreseeable future. The collection was a flurry of leather biker jackets, studded jeans and shorts worn with holey tights and biker boots, shiny burnt orange cropped trousers and oversized tux jackets.

As an ode to the USA, key to the collection was red, white and blue, stars and stripes. But while the look was harsh biker chic, magnetic colours drew the eye in with glimmering studs, metallic sheens and saftey pin embellished bustiers. A rocky collection that was true to the Balmain name and was a leap away from previous girly/minimal collections we've witnessed since the beginning of Fashion Week.

Nina Ricci...

The Nina Ricci show was the show that brought the second day of Paris Fashion Week to a close. With frothy frills in a perfect nude colour pallet the collection was typically Parisian chic.  There was a real girly emphasis on the collection - from dotted tunics and embellished skirts to tulle high neck dresses, lace shirts, paper bag skirts and ruffled jackets. Then in-between the sweetness and light of it all came bold striking navy, fuchsia and lime green

The collection was beautiful.  Sweet Parisian chic at it's best.  Lots of volume, delicate folds and swoops. The playful, sweet essence of the collection reminded me somewhat of previous Sonia Rykiel collections who also has pretty Parisian chic nailed.